Should i seal subfloor




















I picked up one of those grated folding steps from Camping World to stomp on real hard before entering the trailer Seems to have helped Roy Ken. May 20, 3. Thanks, roybraddy for the insight. After doing a ton of research, I came up with a plan I think might do the trick. I am buying 3 sheets, using Titebond III on shiplap joints to connect them together, then using Titebond III brushed around all of the edges and holes through the wood to seal it.

After that I will probably use an exterior latex paint to paint a few inches in from every hole or edge to help seal it. So that's the plan, right now. May 20, 4. Helmsman Spar Urethane is an excellent breathable yet waterproof sealer for wood products. Erik Johnson likes this. May 20, 5. It seems people are split on whether to seal the bottom or not.

Most feel that the bottom needs to "breathe" and if I seal it I will seal in any moisture that gets in and will encourage rot. The top will have vinyl over it, so I am not worried about that. Right now my main thing is to seal the edges, and the titebond III should do it, from what I have read.

Anyone have any experience that would say otherwise? I have a plan to seal the corners properly, so water from the top shouldn't be an issue May 20, 6. Are you going to reinforce the frame any with the deck off? My floor is in good shape, but I can feel deflection when I walk around inside I like Roy's idea of angle iron support; I was thinking of scab'ing in PT "joists".

I'm less of a metal worker than I am a wood worker. May 20, 7. May 20, 8. I can see it getting spray if driving in the rain, but other than that it should be dry May 20, 9.

So in talking with the various people I know that are engineers and woodworkers and such, incorporating the knowledge gained from you folks, here is the revised plan: I will shiplap the joints with Titebond III to waterproof them.

They usually are sold in paint-on format, but you can find them in spray-on format. They do not always contain antifungal or antibacterial properties, so shop around if you want a sealer that includes those elements. Most waterproofing for plywood and particleboard comes in a paint-on format. These are typical latex-based topical products that, like sealer, are designed to keep out water; but rather than penetrating into the actually layers of wood, topical waterproofing is painted onto the surface.

Once it dries, it creates a protective layer that keeps water out from the side that was coated. While paint-on waterproofing was the most popular method for years when it came to vinyl and tile installations on top of plywood in wet areas, membrane systems also are common in protecting wood from rotting beneath or behind wet-area installations.

These generally are plastic or synthetic membranes which are either interlocking or sheet-based products that are installed directly on the surface of the plywood to create a water barrier. And is a product like kiltz that you can buy Lowes good enough?

Thanks for any help. Lefty Member. Concrete or Wood? Guest Guest. Dolly Llama Number 5. If you don't have a paint pole, any broom handle that will unscrew from the head will screw into a roller if it's dog urine you're sealing, just the floors will generally suffice. Click to expand BTW, tell 'em "hell yea" you seal floors cause it's easy money you just need them to be "specific" of what they want done also whether it's cat or dog urine.

I already mentioned that cat urine can be up the walls, and on every door jamb too In the most severe cases, the subfloor will need replaced in spots to give any kind of guarantee. Make sure it doesn't need to be cleaned. I have gone into some with so much dust and crap under the pad or just an empty basement they wanted sealed to put a pad done and it was a mess to clean. I lost money. John Buxton Member.

Joined Oct 18, Messages I would have a concern sealing concrete if the moisture content in the concrete is high.



0コメント

  • 1000 / 1000